3D Printing Forum

Good idea. I've seen some people make an air duct to channel air over the heat break. Maybe I'll do that instead so I don't have to machine the aluminum.

I've seen those solutions before but I'm still not thrilled about any of them. From what I've experienced the problem with PLA come from heat creeping up the thermal tube and softening the PLA during retracts which cause it to expand and jam. My hope is that the titanium will help limit the heat cre...

Do the images show up now? I was going to make a bunch and try a few different things. I plan on getting at least one type II anodized which should give it a slightly slipperier and harder surface. The other thing will be getting a really nice surface finish inside the bore so I may send them out fo...

My bad. Should be fixed now.

I am on a quest to design a better all metal hot end for the Ultimaker 2. I hate replacing the PTFE thermal barriers and my experience with all metal hot ends in the past has been a bit disappointing (PLA is usually very hard to print with an all metal hot end). I have been toying with various desig...

That's going to depend a lot on your printer and settings. I usually model the threads at nominal because they tend to print a little undersized.

I routinely print #4-40 and #6-32 threads using .1 and .12 layer thicknesses. They won't hold up as well as a brass insert or a nut but they work just as well as a drilled and tapped thread. With threads that small I just use a 1.2 or 1.6 Shell thickness to ensure the threads have enough wall thickn...

I've had good luck with printing threads slightly undersized then chasing them with a tap later to clean up the threads. It helps tapping by not having as much material to remove. Also tapping under cold running water helps keep the taps from gumming up. Usually the printed threads are close enough ...

I normally use Bridge Nylon for the atomic which I pull out at 135 C to clean the inside of the nozzle. I think that works really well. For the outside, I haven't tried the external atomic method. I just use a piece of paper and try to wipe it clean when it is hot. This works well with some plastic...

I recieved one of Anders' ruby nozzles and have run about a half a spool of ColorFabb XT-CF20 through it so far. I am very happy with the results thus far. I had been using E3D's hardened steel nozzles which worked OK but still started to show some signs of wear after 1-1.5 spools of XT-CF20. One of...

I've been using E3D hardened steel nozzles with XT-CF20 for a while now and while they hold up much better than the brass they still see a lot of wear on the tip. Mostly the tip edges get rounded which can cause bad layer adhesion and filament curling up onto the nozzle. I'm excited to see for mysel...