3D Printing Forum

Know father he does, bastard is not, green he is.

I'm still watching the OLO with interest, and if it does fully come to market I am interested.

Coincidentally I have just tried TwoBears Biofila Silk on the Wanhao as I didn't have it in 2.85mm. I didn't have any of the problems that Frederik had with Lignin based filaments from either Two Bears or Extruder. After swapping out I just perform an atomic pull and clean the outside of the nozzle ...

It's a bit of a pain when despite best efforts somebody forces something and huts themselves then try's to blame you! We say that we try to design thinks to make the "squadie and idiot proof!" But we always end up with that one 'special idiot' surviving against the odds so far to either br...

I know it's more work (long term) but what about having the doors on a spring or elastic fix on the lever, so that if they do open the door it doesn't effect the actuator and the door will spring shut again?

Looks great, how about dressing up as an old Jedi too?

Yes that's what should happen, it would allow you to change filament or insert something that could then be sealed in etc.

Cheers Jonny, The Z stage is the weak point on the bed levelling, its make up means that it is acting as a cantilever and so on large heavy builds there will be a difference between the front and the back heights, a small one but it would be there. The majority of the time we will not be building it...

Ok K.I.S.S. (Keep it Simple Stupid) If we could get a flat bed that is stable, once you have set up your Nozzle to bed gap there would be no need to constantly check and adjust this gap. If the glass plate is not thick enough to be ridged, increase the thickness until it is. If the tolerance of the ...

On S3D, the "only retract when crossing open spaces" I found that when it was printing the walls would retract at the end of each circuit of a wall or hole which led to clumps, rather than just a xy movement to the next circuit.

Cheers Frederick, the only little issue with those bits is a) approximate gap is 10mm, b) only way to adjust is to remove and reinsert. I've designed, printed and tested the little "jack" below, and although not perfectly level I'm now within 0.08mm across my general print area. IMG_1103.J...

Hi Frederick, Welcome to the forum ;-) Yes I had spotted that all those screw heads were not countersunk quite enough but I increased the countersink depth for those back in 2015, it seems that the plate may have a very slight twist or angle across the back, if I do a 200um first layer it gets so th...

Gripe, :-x My print plate isn't fully level. It's level to the 3 bed levelling points, but across the rear there is a slight slope from high on the left to low on the right. It's only 0.2mm difference across 100mm but enough to bug me. So, at the moment to test the 'y' axis motor and doing short pri...

For the last 4 1/2 days my printer has been running almost continuously as I'm having a go at printing the bits for a 3D scanner that uses the iphone to take pictures that you then send to Autocad etc to get the 3d part generated. I've printed the 4 main base parts and this morning I started the tur...

I think we need to kidnap Angus into the forum group