3D Printing Forum

Freecad might be able to do it, but my experience with that cad is extremely limited. I find the UI difficult to understand.

https://www.freecad.org/

Roberts_Clif, Thanks, it took a bit of trying as I have never worked with surfaces before. But it is still a quick and dirty try to make something printable. When I got into it, yep, it looks like a 3D surface scan. These of course are strictly a surface and in this case, not even a full 360°. But i...

OK, took the challenge and attempted to make something sliceable (if that's a word:}) 1. Brought your file into fusion as a mesh. 2. Did a mesh repair as a stich and remove function to do a rudimentary fix of the file. 3. Converted the mesh to a solid. 4. Saved the file as a .stl file 5. pulled it i...

If it is just a surface, I have read that fusion has a "thicken" command that will turn a surface into a solid. I have never messed with surfaces, so can't really advise on how to do it.

Assuming you don't have access to a stp or other solid model file. The way I would do it would be to import into cad, convert to a solid model and make the changes wanted. Then export as a new stl file.

I have in the past had the same thing happen on my printer and each time (yep multiple times) it would be due to a clog in the nozzle. In my case, I was using a slice engineering bi-metal heat break. Ended up replacing the heat break and (knock on wood) haven't had a problem since. When I pulled the...

In the bottom picture, that gear definitely looks worn in the center section and clogged with bits of plastic residue. First try cleaning it to see if that helps. But in long run I would replace that gear. Brass is a relatively soft material and some of the filaments can be abrasive due to the addit...

As you noted, changing the nozzle itself is no problem. Obviously this will require some changes to the variables in the slicer also. As most of my prints are "Functional structures", this might speed up the process and according to some might make the results stronger? Can't understand wh...

I saw it and based on other info, kinda makes sense. Before I jumped on the bandwagon, have been waiting to see what others may think. Most of the stuff I print is "structural" rather than fine detailed so it might make sense to go down this rabbit hole. I figure it will also take some tes...

This sounds like an interesting video series on what is done, why and how!

This is a rabbithole that can not only produce excellent results depending on your end goal, but a great learning tool of using a combination ideas that may not be available in one place. You seem to enjoy the 'tinkering' aspect of the hobby and the return for the buck as an education value is price...

yeh, especially when I tried to put the error message into translate with my English keyboard! Fortunately it was close enough for me to confirm my suspicion of what was wrong:})

Yes, your print bed is 300x300, but the print area will not necessarily allow a print that big. Cura automatically reduces the print area size by an amount to allow for skirts, brims, rafts etc. If you look as your graphic closely, you can see a grey shaded area around the perimeter of the bed. This...

I am guessing here, but the model may be to big for the build platform. Looking at the front edge, it appears to be in the "no print zone" Maybe you can move it back some? The model can not be in the gray shaded area of the bed outline. This area is affected by your settings which might ma...

Tronxy x5s-400 project machine:}) In process of making it a dual extruder machine.
Ender5 just a good plain workhorse!