3D Printing Forum

Can you post pictures of your new mount in action? I downloaded the STL files and want to compare them with two I found on Thingiverse.

Ok, I think I have this resolved. Thermistor wires were melted due to the previous PLA blob (top post). Fortunately, I ordered a 5 pack. Replaced it, cleaned the rest of the goo from the hot end wires, replaced the heat block, tip, and throat, everything seems ok now (well, at least it is extruding ...

Ugh. Not sure what is going on now. Replaced the extruder assembly, now I am getting filament jams. Weird ones. Had to throw one throat away because the Teflon sleeve actually melted to the PLA. Now I have another that is doing something similar after heating up and extruding some material. This is ...

Looks like spinnychick has the right solution.

I'm going to go drink and print now.

Couldn't say it better. Thankfully, I live really close to a really good local distillery. They even have ice cream.

If only it was that simple. By encased, I mean it looked like I was looking at a block of ice. I know about acetone vs chloroform, I just don't know where to get chloroform where I live. Amazon, I guess. This isn't the first time this happened. I did it once before I had everything tuned in and had ...

So, I had my 3DP-17 dialed in, everything worked well and most of my prints were awesome (including a skull I had scaled down to ~2cm - very nicely detailed even that small). Running the Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 with some of my own tweaks (still fine tuning a few things), and Cura 2.4 (need to update a few ...

Just a note, I bought the 3DP-17 on Amazon a couple of weeks ago (March 6th), and mine came with a 24v power supply and 12awg wire. So they do take customer feedback to heart apparently. I'm sure you can still buy the printers with the lower rated wire and power supply, but I would guess that is exi...

Another thing I discovered last night is that if you are doing PLA at temperatures above 210, you have to turn down the cooling fan as well. Once the fan kicks in (usually around the third layer), it can drop the extruder temp by +10 degrees, and it will take almost 10mm to recover to 210. I never g...

Just found this thread and went off to try out Craftware. So far, I see a lot of potential. Being a Linux native, I cringe at some of the basics that are missing (lack of USB Printing support, 32bit only), but the rest is really solid. First print going now with very fine details and custom supports...

I've spent most of the day today updating and retesting this. My testing right now is using Chip's suggestions on extruder temperature calibration (call it Chip's Challenge ?). Turns out, my extruder fan kicked in starting around layer 3, and went full on at layer 5, preventing the extruder temp fro...

I am hitting the same issue with "Thermal Runaway" errors. One notable difference between the code from shocksofmighty and the original HICTOP 3DP-17-398 that I see is that the HICTOP Configuration.h has this disabled. // If you want to enable this feature for all your extruder heaters, //...

I just bought and built my first 3D printer; the Hictop 3DP-17. I would like to point out that most of the above suggestions appear to have been heard by the manufacturer, as I had no issues with the bearings, the power supply is 24v (not 12v), and the wiring is higher quality than what I would expe...