3D Printing Forum

I have been playing around with various different apps, but I seem to only do real printing with the older Cura 15.04. Being a Linux guy and big supporter of the open source ideals (I have my own program on SourceForge), I have a hard time paying $$$ when there are a lot of apps that are either equa...

Cura (15.xx) has a plugin for this. It is called "Pause at Height". Not sure about the newer 2.x releases.

Yes, I agree. I now have a set of tips, tubes, and blocks. All assembled and ready to do damage. I also have a 5 pack of thermistors and a spare heater (it was part of a complete hot-end replacement set). I now have a spare board (maybe two if they don't ask me to return the one under warranty - whi...

Thingiverse has some business card holders (this is a small sample). You could also find something artsy, like a small lamp . The key is knowing what your timeline is to print something (plan for a few redo's), the audience you are trying to impress, and how much (and type) of filament you have or a...

So, replacement board and switch finally arrived. The board is identical to the board I bought last week off Amazon, but different than the original. Either I was given a replacement from old stock, or this is a new rev. The key difference is the SD card slot on the bottom of the control board next ...

Since you attached the head, would this be considered grafting?

Sorry, I'll leaf that alone.

I already replaced the switch with a 24v 17a DC switch (same dimensions) from O'Reily Auto Parts. $2.85 US. The blower fan is now on order, will arrive tomorrow. If they fail again, I found Delta Electronics (a well known manufacturer in the electronics industry) has them on Digikey for $13ea. Bette...

And ... down again. Seems I also blew out the 24v blower fan and the circuit for it. Fan doesn't work. Period. Original control board has the fan set to max power, no control (I tested with both a multimeter and the extruder fan). Warranty replacement board is stuck in China customs. Thankfully, I h...

Material is whatever the X axis bearing blocks are made of (aluminum?), and the tap was a 4MM .70 pitch. I already disassembled the X axis and swapped that block with one of the 2 upper blocks. Didn't fix the issue, but gets me closer to up and running again. I ended up mounting the leveler to the b...

Gah! Just snapped my tap while tapping out the bottom threads on the bearing. Was actually pulling the tap out. Snapped just barely above the surface.

Well, this week has been fun (not). Backup board (from Amazon) came Wednesday. I removed the original board and just applied power to the new board. Nothing. Thought the PS had blown. Tested the PS, 24v at the PS when the switch was off. Switch on, 5v at the board. So, I ordered a new PS. It arrived...

Replacement board and power switch are being sent from the factory. In the mean time, I have a new board coming from Amazon tomorrow. One thing I am curious about, the heated bed is rated at 250W/24V. Simple math says this is 10.41 amps, over the 10A rating for the switch. I haven't had a chance to ...

Well, ~12 decent prints later, and now my system is dead. I smelled hot electronics ~3 hours into a 14 hour print, ran into the room the printer is in, and it went lifeless except for the LCD a few seconds later. The hot end reported a temp of 216C (I had it set for 205C for PLA). Cura was showing a...

I have G29 in my start.gcode just after finding X0 Y0, and Z0 lines. This is what Hictop recommended for their autolevel sensor, and it will cycle through the AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR before each print, but it does keep the data while printing. May keep it until the printer is reset. Not sure. I h...

The red mount looks like what I found on Thingiverse. I just finished printing it last night and will mount it up this weekend.

Let us know how the new sensor compares.