3D Printing Forum

I have tons of EL wire, tape and pieces. I used a red square of it inside my R2's dome, to mimic the flashing seen in Return of the Jedi, when the poor fella gets popped by a Stormtrooper. While it worked, that loud huuuuummmm of the transformer/adapter that powered it was on the borderline of annoying and what's wrong in there?

I bought mine from Adafruit (https://www.adafruit.com/categories/50 )

Hmm.. High voltage stuff and a very ugly AC frequency. I must say I prefer LEDs over that. With 3D printed light guides you can make very nice LED projects.

I'm not sure the specs on it...it seemed like red was "noisier" than blue or green. And if you have tinnitus (ringing in the ears)...boy, this thing will amplify that

It greatly depends on the converter. The ones I used have a bit of a hum, but those are easily insulated so you don't hear them.

You can't get the same effect with leds as you can with EL. Led will always have brighter & darker spots, whereas EL has has a constant illumination.

Exactly....great for a Tron suit!

Received a gift with my belt-order that arrived today. Wish they would have sent something useful instead

PrintaFix is good, I use it when hairspray just won't hold!
It also works well on the printed too

Bed adhesion isn't my biggest problem right now...been chippin' glass like crazy lately

Time to make a visit to the nearest glazier and stock up

I just don't like the idea to spray that stuff into the printer. Not at all... Most of it goes right into the linear systems. And I wouldn't wanna have to remove the build plate for every print (and spray it outside of the printer). Guess I'm happy that I switched over to my trusty PEI build plate. Everything sticks to it with no glue or spray or anything. And most materials come off by themselves when the buildplate has cooled down.

@nilrog: Have you considered something other than glass? Like a PEI sheet or something like a printinz.com sheet. I have an (older) build plate from printinz.com around, but never tried it (it's round for a delta-printer that I never finished). But I think they should work very well.

So far I have used Colorfabb XT and discovered that with an 80C build plate (machine temp, not verified actual temp) it stick perfectly to the glass. Still need to take it off, carefully, before it is too cool otherwise the glass could chip. With dilluted glue it chipped way to easily. Going to pick up some new glass plates at a local shop today as I have already chipped both sides of the original glass plate

For Polymax PLA it seems that 62C build plate also makes the parts stick without using any adhesive. With dilluted glue or gluestick I would get "bubbles" in the bottom layer...and without I get nice flat surfaces.

That's the materials I have tested so far without using any glue. I also tried neotko's haripray method...but the hairspray I had didn't really show any improvment over plain glass.

I have been looking at a PEI sheet, but so far i'm trying to avoid it, but things may change

Neotko wrote:

nallath wrote:

Neotko wrote:What sd card?? Mine is empty

Also that means exactly what I said. There can't be tinkergnome firmwares for um3.

There is a micro SD with the OS on it. It is possible for a tinkergnome firmware to be there.

Yes, you need linux knowledge. But it provides an amazing platform to develop on.

I will ask the firmware guys if an "easy" firmware option is on the roadmap.

My a20board sd slot is empty since the day it arrived. Know that because I bricked the net wifi load touching the stuff I shouldn't, and got to buy a a20 serial cable to ssh by usb/serial to the board to fix my mistake.

Thanks btw!

Sorry to reply so late, anyhow.

The printers are indeed not shipped with the micro SD card in use. However any OS you put there, will be booted first. Iow, the microSD card has priority over the onboard storage. Since we use an A20, I would suggest to head over to http://linux-sunxi.org to get familiar for the low level stuff.

Alternatively, to install a 'custom iamge', it is true, we do not want to make it too easy. Not because we don't want people to experiment, on the contrary, but we have to protect our general users from themselves (or mischievous users?). When updating via the Menu (either via the internet or via a USB stick) the firmware does indeed need to be signed. The GUI checks the signature. But that's it. If you want to manually deploy a custom image, it would work something like:

1) enable developer mode
2) scp your rootfs.tar.xz to /tmp/rootfs.tar.xz
3) run 'systemctl isolate update.rootfs.target' on the printer, which can be done either via the serial console, ssh or execute the command remotely (over ssh).

This will install a custom firmware onto the machine. For small changes, as Jaime mentioned, you can just ssh in and modify/copy files.

Wow interesting!

Regarding XT and glass chipping.

I had that problem when printing on clean glass, but after I started applying Tesa Easy Stick glue on the platform the glass has survived.
It appears that the Tesa glue limits the adhesion so that the printed part comes off the grass before it risks chipping.

I always put two layers of glue on a clean platform by the way, and then add one layer before each new print.

The Tesa glue works perfect for almost any material on my printer. In fact, you can even print PLA directly on a cold plate when using the Tesa-glue (!) (Even if I would always prefer a hot plate with no glue for PLA)

Interesting feedback regarding XT, thanks!

Printing on plain glass seems to be ok...but you need to watch the print so that it doesn't cool too much before you try to remove it.

Diluted wood glue was perfect for adhesion and XT...in fact too good

This is the glue stick you are referring to right?
http://m.clasohlson.com/se/Limstift-Tesa-Eco/31-1120

Might try that one...the Staples one that was included with the printer is not so good.

Yes it is that one, just pick one up next time you are at Gränby

It works for all materials I have tested so far except flexible FEP (that is a horrible material and only prints on extremely hot clean glass) and POM (that does not stick to anything)
The glue included with my UM2 was quite useless too, much to soft and difficult to apply in thin enough layers.