Hictop 3dp11 Printer

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slewpy
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3dp11

Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by slewpy »

It looks like the bed is heating up too much for the prints I add. One of the test samples only takes the bed to 45. Mine goes to 60 or 70 even though I thought I assigned it in the machine settings. The filament doesn't get to heat I thought I assigned either. Stops at 200

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GrueMaster
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-17, Hictop CR-10S

Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by GrueMaster »

From your previous post, I would initially start by doing a full bed level set and test. Start by moving the print head to each corner, and hitting Z home while using a sheet of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Best to do this with the bed and nozzle at temp (60/200). You should have slight resistance when trying to slide the paper between the two. Next, print a bed level test print. Make sure it fits your print bed dimensions (there might be one specific to your printer). I have one that I manually dialed in for my CR10-S. When it prints, it will print a square in each corner and fill it in with lines. When properly adjusted, the lines should smoosh together to form a flat glass like surface on the bed, and the top should have no bubbles. I run this every time I change filament, as each filament has slightly different characteristics when in semi-liquid state.

Check out this video:

slewpy
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3dp11

Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by slewpy »

Thank you Grue I will play with that print as well. I found a post out there with some good settings for the ender and I cranked up my filament to 230 to start and down to 225 for print and all looks awesome. Got my camera and printed a mount for it. This is really awesome! Thank you for all the help.

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GrueMaster
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-17, Hictop CR-10S

Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by GrueMaster »

Glad to hear that you are enjoying it. That's what this hobby is about.

I'm printing 4 Raspberry Pi 4 rack chassis as I type this. Already printed the chassis for the 5 port POE switch. This is expected to run another 15-21 hours (depending on which Octoprint reading I look at).

slewpy
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3dp11

Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by slewpy »

Send some pictures

slewpy
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3dp11

Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by slewpy »

I looked at that chassis earlier. Trying to get the octopi set up as well

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Roberts_Clif
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12

Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by Roberts_Clif »

On your 3DP11 did it come with a SN04-P Proximity sensor and mount.

Bracket.jpg
If so I removed My Solid Sensor mount and replaced it with a spring loaded slide mount.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1534152/comments
Adjustable Mount.jpg
Then I replaced the SN04-P with a TL-W3MC2 Proximity Sensor and redesigned the slide Mount.

Either the SN04-P or TL-W3MC2 Proximity Sensor make for a much easier alignment of the 3DP11.

slewpy
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3dp11

Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by slewpy »

yes mine originally came with that green sensor. As I may have said, I never had the z-axis limit switch installed and after watching some old videos I figure I left it off a couple of ears ago because I was using the green sensor. In my attempts to get the printer working last week I actually hooked up the z-axis sensor in the phoenix spot for the green adapter and just moved the green one over to an open phoenix spot Probably messed something up on the board. That new sensor in the bottom pic probably comes as just 3 wires at the end....How did you plug it into the board?

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Roberts_Clif
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12

Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by Roberts_Clif »

I wired it to a Keyed connector as shown in the photo.

SN04-N Wiring.jpg
This sensor is the similar to a end-stop switch nothing is changes in the firmware.
As my 3DP11 did not come with this sensor, when I purchased one did not have to change the firmware.
When I changed over to the smaller TL-W3MC2 sensor I then inverted the sensor input.

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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Hictop 3dp11 Printer

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Converted Marlin 2.0.0 for the Original Hictop 3DP11/12

Marlin-2.0.0 Release.zip
Image2.jpg
This is a basic conversion of the configuration files from Marlin 1.1.9BF

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