Hictop 3dp-12 help

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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Ellou wrote:
August 11th, 2020, 4:21 pm
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,398,94.4962144}

Those are the stock settings for the 3dp12 and worked before updating. After entering that 398 I still get the z axis moving to high at each layers.
How much too high!

Could you post a closeup photo of the Z-Axis Lead screws

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Ellou »

I figured it out. I didn't really understand how to save to eeprom. I was trying to save from the printer. Reflashing wasn't working so I used pronterface. That finally worked. The issue was the settings for the steps. z steps needed to be changed to 398. I finally have the printer working and after some tuning it's actually printing better. I still have to tune out some vertical lines but they are shallow and aren't really noticeable.

Only issue I have now is getting the heat failed message. I'm going to try to tune PIDs but if that doesn't work I'll order a new power supply. I really think I should tear it all down and rebuild it to make sure everything is clean and square. Besides nozzle and heat block all belts and parts are original.

I'm still going to work on getting updated to Marlin 2.0.

Any recommendations for hardware upgrades that are worthwhile?

Ellou
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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Ellou »

Well ofcourse I couldnt leave well enough alone. I was getting sporadic under extrusion and after troubleshooting decided to change out the nozzle. Actually switched out the nozzle, heat block and the screw. After installing and testing for a new z offset it crashed into the build plate. Adjusted a couple millimeters to get a baseline. Same thing. Set the offset to 5 and then 8. Same issue. Tried setting it in pronterface and saving to the eeprom that way. Same issue. Adjusted the probe and finally go it to do something different. Now its a bout 1 or 2 millimeters to high. Changing z offset and saving to eeprom in pronterface or on printer has no effect. Its like its just ignoring what I enter. Googling showed other people having the issue in earlier versions of marlin but their fixes havent worked for me. 1 step forward 2 steps back I guess. Ill keep at it and post here incase I find a resolution that might help someone else.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Hello I found that when I could 3D Print a single model that this was the first model that was selected.
Before I used the Z-Offset under the menu control to set my offset, thought you can use by Specifying Z offset in Marlin firmware.
An adjusted the Proximity sensor height manually a real pain.

if you need to set a Z offset
Reset the existing Z-offset to zero M851 Z0 then
Z-offset (set by M851 Z-x.xx is needed to set the offset between the nozzle and the sensor trigger point (to the bed).

After I got good prints, my first model was an adjustable Z-Offset mount for the 3DP11/12.
spring loaded thumb screw mount

Though somehow could not figure out exactly how he got the screw and spring part to work, so I ran the screw in from the bottom
placing the spring inside below the thumb nut.

Will take it apart an post pictures if you need me to.

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1768&p=16163&hilit ... unt#p16163

In link above have a picture where changed the SN04 sensor to a TL-W3MC2 you look in the Image on the white Mount you can see the spring.

The newer White mount allowed me to get the sensor with 20mm of the nozzle.
TL-W3M 3.jpg
Oh!! Also added a Heat Shield as seen in image above. With a new duct work to cool the throat.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Ellou »

Thanks for that. I had actually printed the mount out but couldn't get the sensor close enough to work. I ordered a longer screw and it came in today. Yeah that sn04 sensor is horrible to adjust. I was hoping since I was able adjust the z offset I wouldn't need it. Since it isn't working anymore I guess I need to.

Hopefully I finish editing 2.0.3 tomorrow and can upload.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Ellou »

One thing I am confused about for adding that mount. It pushes the Sn04 probe out about 5mm. When looking at the original hictop firmware they have x10 y10 and z-0.5. Ive tried to measure from x,y and z probe and cant match their numbers. I also tried to match yours and Chips but still doesnt work out for me. From my understanding the z-0.5 is how much higher the prob is from the nozzle. X and Y are how far the probe is from the x and y sensor.

Where do I update the firmware to show the Sn04 probe is 5mm further back then before?
Where is that number 10 coming from for stock software? Your 2.0 firmare says to set it at 63 for SN04 but when I measure Im getting 120mm for x and 95 for Y. That leads me to think the Probe_offset numbers are in cm. But that still doesnt explain where to edit for the 5mm back the Sn04 now is.

Unfortunately googling and searching the forums always brings up z offset which is something different. Im just not sure how to phrase it accurately to get better search results.

Thanks again. Hope you have your PC gremlins sorted.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Roberts_Clif »

I my Marlin firmware I kept the original settings as foot notes.
As this helped not having to research my original firmware settings with every question about now to set up the original Hictop 3DP printers.

Taking a quick look back below No have not changed my setting by much anyway

Marlin 1.1.1

Code: Select all

  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5
  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 5

  // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
  #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10
  #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 210
  #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 63
  #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 245
Marlin 1.1.9BF

Code: Select all

  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 6
  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 6

  // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
  #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10 // 10 For SN04-N and 20 for for TL-W3MC2
  #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 205 // 205 For SN04-N and 200 for for TL-W3MC2
  #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 63 // 63 For SN04-N and 25 for for TL-W3MC2
  #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 245 // 245 For SN04-N and 260 for for TL-W3MC2
What is your location - Country , City, I am in Washington State USA

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Ellou »

Sorry life stuff came up. I'm in Austin Texas.

Everyday I work on this printer it's a back and forth with progress. On the plus side I've learned more this month then I had in 3 years owning it.

I think I have the z axis sorted.

Stock settings were x 10, y10, z-.05.

Measuring from nozzle to probe in stock position gave more the 10mm. With the adjustable mount it's pushed back further but I measured it wrong. I started from back of build plate to the probe.

Your numbers seem more on the money then stock. Maybe that's why I was always having issues leveling.

I have off tommorow so I'm going to update using your 1.1.9, calibrate everything from teachingtechs tuning website, add the th3d flex build plate that just came in and hope for the best. The ender 3 isn't printing perfect but a lot less hassle.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Roberts_Clif »

All you have to do is post what you are having problems with, I will look at every post on this forum.
Though My strongest experience is with the Hictop 3D Printers.

I stopped using the SN04-N.
I started using this TL-W3MC2 because could mount it 20mm directly behind the nozzle.
All STL file I have designed and used are posted on this forum. request and will post again.

B0242_TL-W3MB_E.jpg

I Changed pins_Ramps filament run-out to pin 19 ;this is Z-Max End-stop I original had X-Max Pin 2
I have to invert the Z-Max End_Stop.

Though even when I had the SN04-N I had no problems, It was all me that wanted sensor to be closer to the Nozzle.
Could have placed the sensor even closer but thought it would melt if it was placed too close.

All sensors have been using a +5volt power source with no problems.
I will be designing a 12 - 24 volt optical isolator circuit for use with either 12 or 24 volt supplies.
Will be interesting to see if the correct supply voltage changes the way the proximity sensors work.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Ellou »

Ok. Now I just need an opinion before I move forward with this printer. Do you think this printer is worth throwing a couple hundred dollars at?

After doing all of this work to get it working better I realized the
-psu voltage drops to 8.5-9v when heating and during print
-Z lead screws have a wobble at the top
---hadnt shown up as a big deal but if print quality was better I would want it fixed
- I don't think the extruder has enough tension anymore
-after switching out old bed bearings and adding tensioner to y belt it no longer glides smoothly
- finally it's an off brand printer that not a lot of people have/use

I would like to have at least 2 good working printers and for the basics I need for the hictop I could just by an ender 3 with a little extra money.

Psu - 30
Bearings and sled - 25
Threaded rods - 20 ish
Abl sensor 10-60 depending on what I get
-Not necessary but I would like the sensor closer to the nozzle. I hate the sn04 setup
Updated extruder $$???
-not even sure which way to go with this.

So although I would need to upgrade a newer printer with mods I would be starting off with a more modern and better supported base.

Just curious if you think throwing that money at this printer is worth it or if money would go farther on an new model.

I know everyone's opinions and situations are different just want to make a informed decision.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Ellou wrote:
September 1st, 2020, 9:39 am
1. Do you think this printer is worth throwing a couple hundred dollars at?
2. psu voltage drops to 8.5-9v when heating and during print
3. Z lead screws have a wobble at the top
4. I don't think the extruder has enough tension anymore
5. after switching out old bed bearings and adding tensioner to y belt it no longer glides smoothly
6. finally it's an off brand printer that not a lot of people have/use
7. I would like to have at least 2 good working printers and for the basics I need for the hictop I could just by an ender 3 with a little extra money.
8. Updated extruder $$???


I hate the sn04 setup
1. No!!! I think we all spend too much for our hobbies. Though What else are we going to do with our money and time - Watch TV
2. You measured the power at the controller and it is 8.5-9 volts, measure the voltage at the Power supply if it is 12-14 volts.
---Then replace the wires from the power supply to the controller, I have used Solid House wiring and Motorola Radio power cable.
---Get both for free just need to know where to look.
3. This wobble will cause problems, What lead screw do you have. post a photo.
4. If you are having power problems of course the extruder will have less torque, Fix power cables.
---I used a computer power cord to wire the 110VAC the stock cord was no good.
5. There is a sweet spot where the belts will be at the correct tension.
---Too tight or to loose will cause problems.
6. I have two "Chinese off brand Hictop 3D Printers" I would not trade them down for an Ender.
---I have purchased many consumables ("filament not included") for my both my Hictop 3D Printer to the tune of $400.
---These are for just in case something goes wrong I do not have to wait weeks for parts.
---Plus I purchase when I can get many for the Price of a single part.
7. If I am correct on some of the repair not needing parts you have saved the money.
8. I have use the stock extruder for three years now it is not a requirement to have to update.

There is nothing wrong with the Stock SN04-N Proximity sensor. Just 3D Print a manual thumb screw mount for the Sensor.
I hated it also that is the only reason I changed to the TL-W3MC2, you may not like this setup either though.
Compare.jpg
Note moved the Sensor to the side to be directly behind the nozzle.
An the Thumb screw adjustment for fast calibration.
TL-W3M 1jpg.jpg

Have to leave now will send you a PM later. (private messages)
Last edited by Roberts_Clif on September 1st, 2020, 8:39 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Ellou »

Hey. Not sure if you meant for me to send you a privateessage or not.

If this can work well I don't mind spending a couple hundred. As long as it's not just throwing parts at it hoping and dreaming it works out. I did just buy a flexible build plate for it $45 so I guess I'm already starting down that path.

I can post some pics when I get home of the lead screw.

I'm ditching the sn04 for the round sensor. I found a mount that puts it really close to the nozzle. With the thumb screw mount I had to adjust the ABL probing position to a ridiculous number.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Sounds Good,

Lets get a game plan.
Do you have any of these consumables for your Hictop 3D Printer.
Throats, Nozzles, Heaters, heat blocks and Thermisters
Throat.jpg
Nozzle.jpg
Heater.jpg
Heater Block.jpg
Heater Block.jpg (8.64 KiB) Viewed 2751 times
Thermisters.jpg

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Ellou »

Throats, nozzles, and heat blocks yes.

My job requires stickers on my phone cameras so I'll get you some picks tonight since it's my Friday.

Just changed all 3 because I was getting clogs for the first time. Turns out my retraction was set to high in cura. I need to make my own profiles. The ender 3 profiles are ok but for this one it's way off. I think so anyway.

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Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Ellou wrote:
September 2nd, 2020, 10:56 am
Throats, nozzles, and heat blocks yes.

My job requires stickers on my phone cameras so I'll get you some picks tonight since it's my Friday.

Just changed all 3 because I was getting clogs for the first time. Turns out my retraction was set to high in cura. I need to make my own profiles. The ender 3 profiles are ok but for this one it's way off. I think so anyway.
I have attached my Cura 15.04.6 and Cura 3.6.0 profiles.
They may give you a good starting point, I have been told that Different geographic areas may require different settings.
My living in eastern Washington the Channeled Scablands area should be close to the same environmental conditions as you live.

The photo below showing throat PTFE shrinkage needing replacement In an aerial view of two Throats.
The Left is new and as you can see a perfect opening
The right is showing shrinkage and partial clogged is the old one.
Note they a standing is a Lead Screw Nut.
Nozzle & Throat.jpg
Attachments
ABS.zip
(10.41 KiB) Downloaded 46 times
PLA.zip
(12.47 KiB) Downloaded 41 times
Cura 3.6.0.zip
(5.67 KiB) Downloaded 39 times

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