I'm curious of the gains...from what I have observed...the 10S has dual z, filament run out sensor and I *think* an MKS board, replacing the Melzie board.
However, I am told the bed heating is much slower than the original?
Re: CR-10 vs the CR-10S
Posted: November 29th, 2017, 9:51 am
by GrueMaster
I have the 10S, and I know the bed heating is much slower than my 3DP-17. I thought it might be due to the 12v setup vs 24v on the 3DP-17. I'll time it this weekend and report back.
Re: CR-10 vs the CR-10S
Posted: November 29th, 2017, 12:44 pm
by LePaul
But you can upgrade the firmware on that one. Mine requires a new board.
Re: CR-10 vs the CR-10S
Posted: January 1st, 2018, 12:32 pm
by GrueMaster
New issue. Z-Axis steppers drift out of sync. At first, I thought my bed was just shaking loose a bit and needed to relevel after a while. Used a couple of leveling rods I printed for my 3DP-17, and discovered the right side was out by almost 2mm.
Re: CR-10 vs the CR-10S
Posted: January 1st, 2018, 5:54 pm
by Roberts_Clif
Hello GrueMaster
I just went thru this on my 3DP12 w/ T8-8 lead screws, Never had this problem with my 3DP11 that has T8-2 Lead screws. Before I upgraded to the T8-2 I had 8mm all thread 1.25 mm lead pitch per turn these were horrible for a lead screw.
So I purchased a set of T8-2 Lead screws for my 3DP12 and the problem went away. 8MM Trapezoidal thread 2 lead 2mm pitch per turn lead screws.
If you level your bed turn the printer off, start any piece of equipment that vibrates next to the printer you can watch the lead screw turn.
Re: CR-10 vs the CR-10S
Posted: January 1st, 2018, 6:15 pm
by Roberts_Clif
Out of curiosity, I believe the right side of my 3D Printer was becoming out of alignment because I Have a second printer On that side of my printer.
Do you have something on the right side that could cause vibrations, causing you right Z-Axis lead screw to turn.
Ooh!!! You might also try anti-Backlash nuts maybe the spring tension will keep it from dropping