Hictop 3dp-12 help
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
Here are the pictures of the lead screw.
I ll try out those cura settings and let you know how it goes.
I ll try out those cura settings and let you know how it goes.
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
I also checked the voltage from the 12v output from the psu. 9.5 is what it says while the printer is running.
- Roberts_Clif
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- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
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- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
You measured the Voltage on the Power Supply terminals at 9.5 volts.
Your power supply should look like the above photo.
On the Left there is a voltage adjustment, have you tried to adjust to get 12 volts when 3D Printer is running...
Caution do not force the voltage adjustment lightly turn to about 12 .6 volts when running.
Mine sets about mid range the adjustment.
I would also like to know the what is on the power supply label voltage and amps.
I have a 12Volt at 30 amp supply an believe me it take it all.
Oh! another item them running for a while if the Power cord warm or even hot if so need a better power supply cable.
I took an old computer power supply stripped the parts using the power connector and cord on my 3D Printer.
- Roberts_Clif
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- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
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- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
Hictop models to 3D Print to get better models.
Hic tech 3DP11 Z axis solid rod fix Help remove Z-Axis waves
HICTOP LCD on the bottom When my LCD was on Top EFI noise stopped prints in middle.
Hictop Y Motor End stop Models help for a quicker y Axis setup ("Modified from Solid rod fix")
I also use two MF128ZZ flanged bearings to keep belt from rubbing.
New Hictop extruder duct For RepRap Heatsink cooling fins Using 2 fins of RepRap 3D Printer Hotend Heatsink Cooling Fins below
Hictop Cover
Hic tech 3DP11 Z axis solid rod fix Help remove Z-Axis waves
HICTOP LCD on the bottom When my LCD was on Top EFI noise stopped prints in middle.
Hictop Y Motor End stop Models help for a quicker y Axis setup ("Modified from Solid rod fix")
I also use two MF128ZZ flanged bearings to keep belt from rubbing.
New Hictop extruder duct For RepRap Heatsink cooling fins Using 2 fins of RepRap 3D Printer Hotend Heatsink Cooling Fins below
Hictop Cover
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
Here are the pictures of my PSU. The screw to adjust voltage for mine was on the right side. I believe I was able to get it up to 11.9 while printer was running. Afterwards prints seemed to come out pretty bad. Bed at 60degrees causing elephant foot and bad layer adhesion. 40 degrees seemed to fix that but my prints are still much worse since changing from stock firmware.
Due to fighting with the new issues and not being sure what was causing them I decided to reflash firmware and change the probe back to stock position. Since updating Arduino I can't compile stock hictop or your Marlin 2.0 so I used your 1.1.9bf firmware. Only needed to change a couple things and I've been able to print somewhat ok again. Going forward I'm keeping a log of each change I make physically and in software.
I should have been doing that already.
That cooling fan looks good. I just printed one out because the stock fan cover barely met up with the fan.
Does that heatsink give a little more potential print height?
Due to fighting with the new issues and not being sure what was causing them I decided to reflash firmware and change the probe back to stock position. Since updating Arduino I can't compile stock hictop or your Marlin 2.0 so I used your 1.1.9bf firmware. Only needed to change a couple things and I've been able to print somewhat ok again. Going forward I'm keeping a log of each change I make physically and in software.
I should have been doing that already.
That cooling fan looks good. I just printed one out because the stock fan cover barely met up with the fan.
Does that heatsink give a little more potential print height?
- Roberts_Clif
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- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
- Location: Washington, State USA
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
I am glad you are back to printing using Marlin 1.1.9BF.
You made a few changes to 1.1.9BF post them for me would like to keep records for the next Hictop 3D Printer user that needs help.
Note: I had several different version of Arduino IDE on my computer until my window 10 auto update crashed me.
Now just have the Arduino 1.8.8 and Arduino beta. Should install an older version for compiling older Marlin versions.
Also it looks like you are using a 2 wire 110vac Power cord, please wire with an old 3 wire computer cord.
Remember safety first.
My part cooling duct allows the air to keeping the throat cool giving it a longer life.
It also helps when preforming functions like 3D Printing a bridge.
Toy Truck No/Supports
older video with SN04-N proximity and older parts Dust and a lot more noise than I remembered
Keep in there we will get your Hictop 3DP11 printing as well as mine.
I say 3DP11 because noted the my 3DP11 came with a 12 volt power supply while my 3DP12 came with a 24 volt power supply.
They both print approximately equal though my 24 volt 3DP12 runs a lot cooler.
Crazy thing is purchased the parts 2 1/2 years ago to convert my 12 volt to a 24 volt an never saw enough benefits to make them.
So the parts are spares for now! Maybe the next time 3DP11's (Red) power supply burns up will make the conversion...
You made a few changes to 1.1.9BF post them for me would like to keep records for the next Hictop 3D Printer user that needs help.
Note: I had several different version of Arduino IDE on my computer until my window 10 auto update crashed me.
Now just have the Arduino 1.8.8 and Arduino beta. Should install an older version for compiling older Marlin versions.
Also it looks like you are using a 2 wire 110vac Power cord, please wire with an old 3 wire computer cord.
Remember safety first.
My part cooling duct allows the air to keeping the throat cool giving it a longer life.
It also helps when preforming functions like 3D Printing a bridge.
Toy Truck No/Supports
older video with SN04-N proximity and older parts Dust and a lot more noise than I remembered
Keep in there we will get your Hictop 3DP11 printing as well as mine.
I say 3DP11 because noted the my 3DP11 came with a 12 volt power supply while my 3DP12 came with a 24 volt power supply.
They both print approximately equal though my 24 volt 3DP12 runs a lot cooler.
Crazy thing is purchased the parts 2 1/2 years ago to convert my 12 volt to a 24 volt an never saw enough benefits to make them.
So the parts are spares for now! Maybe the next time 3DP11's (Red) power supply burns up will make the conversion...
- Roberts_Clif
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- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
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- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
This thread has a lot of good information
viewtopic.php?p=13993#p13993
viewtopic.php?p=13993#p13993
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
Alright. I think I'm down to my last big issue. I've printed a couple cooling fans and while they are slightly better then stock they still leave much to be desired. Could you post a link to the fan duct you used? I didn't see it listed. Thanks again.
I actually wrote down the changes for 1.1.9 marlin I made but forgot to update it here. I'll do that when I get home.
I actually wrote down the changes for 1.1.9 marlin I made but forgot to update it here. I'll do that when I get home.
- Roberts_Clif
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- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
- Location: Washington, State USA
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
This is a remake of my re-design
I have posted the information Here
More on this subject below
Fan Duct
I have not ideal where I got the heat-sink fins
Found some here you could cut to make half round
I have posted the information Here
More on this subject below
Fan Duct
I have not ideal where I got the heat-sink fins
Found some here you could cut to make half round
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
Hey, thank you for the info and recommendation. It's exactly that I'm trying to understand. MPX-v1 is great!Roberts_Clif wrote: ↑July 29th, 2020, 7:46 pmI have used the Original controller's both the Base V1.3 and MPX.3 work with the same firmware up to Marlin 2.0.3.
Have not configures or flashed a higher version of Marlin as of this date.
I ordered the newest MPK v1 and installed the the same firmware. I found this MPX-v1 controller and should also work
I have also installed Marlin v2 firmware on a RAMPS 1.6 3D PRINTER CONTROLLER + Mega 2560 for my MPCNC.
I see no reason why Ender 3 pro controller will not work though I have no experience using it.
When I started out I purchased spares of the original controllers.
I have decided if controller dies will use a MKS Integrated Ramps or a RAMPS 1.6 3D PRINTER CONTROLLER + Mega 2560.
These controllers have the ramps plugin stepper motor driver[ modules, and will give me a longer controller life.
Last edited by Frank223 on April 13th, 2022, 12:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Roberts_Clif
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- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
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- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: Hictop 3dp-12 help
I have also looked at these an believe any would make a excellent replacements with some firmware changes.
MKS Gen V1.4 3D Printer Controller Remix Board (RAMPS 1.4 + Mega 2560)+USB Cable
BIGTREETECH 3D Printer SKR V1.3 32bit Control Board
BIGTREETECH SKR PRO V1.2 32Bit Control Board
MKS Gen V1.4 3D Printer Controller Remix Board (RAMPS 1.4 + Mega 2560)+USB Cable
BIGTREETECH 3D Printer SKR V1.3 32bit Control Board
BIGTREETECH SKR PRO V1.2 32Bit Control Board