Converting to 1.75mm

Discussions concerning the Ultimaker 2 / Ultimaker 2+ series of printers, including the Ultimaker 2 Go
Post Reply
danilius
Reactions:
Posts: 122
Joined: April 21st, 2016, 5:29 pm
Location: Salford, United Kingdom
3D Printer(s): Ultimaker 2

Converting to 1.75mm

Post by danilius »

Is it possible to convert a UM2 with an Olsson block to 1.75mm filament? Does it need a different block?
User avatar
Neotko
Reactions:
Posts: 1142
Joined: February 7th, 2016, 7:02 pm
Location: Madrid
3D Printer(s): UMO+ x2.5
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Neotko »

Indeed. I use that.

Bowden 6-2mm it's the best, and most reliable. Hard to find, but I can post you some sources.
It needs a new block. China sellers use a 4-2 ptfe that goes up to the nozzle, can work? yes, but no if you want to keep the quality and print temperature.
Also, need nozzles.

So...
- New bowden, or a 2-3mm inside the 3-6mm ultimaker with ptfe glue (the only one that it's reliable to glue and that can survive it's loctite 401 with 770 primer (quite expensive).
- New olsson
- New nozzles

And I'll highly recommend to change to a mk7 since the knurdted diamond shaped bolt of um2 it's designed for 3mm and 1.75 filament needs quite less force to push it, and also it's easier to grind it.

Basically I used the 1.75 modded parts of my umo, and installed a um2 hotend buying the key parts to swordriff (3dsolex).
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/2055 ... conversion

Oh also.. Advantages
- Less retraction distance = more retracts posible without grinding
- Less temperature to print at high speeds
- It's easier to keep high retracts since it need to push more material to print the same area, so the filament physically moves more.
- Easier to print at slooow speeds, since the feeder must move more. Quite handy for me since I print a lot simulating 0.30-0.34 nozzles with my 0.4's

Downside
- The feeder pushes more filament, so it might translate to more vibrations (I never tested 3mm vs 1.75 but makes sense).
- On summer it's easier to bend the filament from heat of the motor (that just happened today since the print room went to 27C after 7h print and the sun started to hit hard in spain this week).
danilius
Reactions:
Posts: 122
Joined: April 21st, 2016, 5:29 pm
Location: Salford, United Kingdom
3D Printer(s): Ultimaker 2

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by danilius »

Brilliant answer. Thanks so much.
reibuehl
Reactions:
Posts: 506
Joined: February 9th, 2016, 9:56 am
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
3D Printer(s): Ultimaker 2

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by reibuehl »

I would be interested in the sources for the 2-6mm bowden.
User avatar
Neotko
Reactions:
Posts: 1142
Joined: February 7th, 2016, 7:02 pm
Location: Madrid
3D Printer(s): UMO+ x2.5
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Neotko »

reibuehl wrote:I would be interested in the sources for the 2-6mm bowden.
Sure.

http://www.charlies3dt.com
This one ptfe never failed so far

https://reprapworld.com/?products_detai ... ts_id/438/
Once I got 2m from them that has the outter dia 5.9ish, and it slipped way too much even with taller clips it was problematic. But they have a very nice customer service and I bet they can caliper it before delivering. They sell a very very good mk7

And from china, I found this one, and it was quite ok, good center, and 6.0-6.1 outter dia. But this shop sells CRAP items, like very very very crappy. Don't even think about getting their cheap couplers/barrels, I bough some from them and it's just trash

http://aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printers- ... 82980.html

But this 6-2mm bowden now only it's cheap but it also works.

And that''s all I found in a year of searching :D

Oh also....

You could just use a 4-2mm ptfe, much easier to source, and drill the ptfecoupler just a bit with a 4mm bit to mark the bowden. Then it would be just a matter of using a smaller clip like the ones e3d sells. I never tested this but it should work.
User avatar
Dim3nsioneer
Reactions:
Posts: 221
Joined: February 19th, 2016, 2:13 pm
Location: Zurich Area, Switzerland
3D Printer(s): Ultimaker Original, 2, 2+, 2 Ext+, 3, S5, Form 2
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Dim3nsioneer »

Ok, hardware ist about ready. I have now the standard 2.85mm on the first extruder (with a bondtech) and the 1.75mm on the second extruder (with a modified Robert-feeder). Next step: Adjusting firmware. Any recommendations on which firmware basis to start?
Dual extrusion is no problem with any Marlin version in question. But what about having different feeders (=different e-steps)? What about individual PID-settings per hotend?
User avatar
Neotko
Reactions:
Posts: 1142
Joined: February 7th, 2016, 7:02 pm
Location: Madrid
3D Printer(s): UMO+ x2.5
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Neotko »

Different PID. I know than tinkergnome pulled that from a rc long ago. But I have no idea where he explained it. Oficial firmware doesn't allow 2 pid for hotends.

Two esteps. Same think.

The only fast way I know it's using different gcode headers so you change esteps/pid for a job with one or the second. On S3D you could make a macro to set a gcode if tool 0 or 1 it's used.

Anyway, you might need to google/dig ultimaker to find where tinkergnome explained how to use that dual pid.
User avatar
Dim3nsioneer
Reactions:
Posts: 221
Joined: February 19th, 2016, 2:13 pm
Location: Zurich Area, Switzerland
3D Printer(s): Ultimaker Original, 2, 2+, 2 Ext+, 3, S5, Form 2
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Dim3nsioneer »

Ah, silly me. I didn't think of putting the information into gcode. It's probably the easiest and fastest way. Thanks!
User avatar
Dim3nsioneer
Reactions:
Posts: 221
Joined: February 19th, 2016, 2:13 pm
Location: Zurich Area, Switzerland
3D Printer(s): Ultimaker Original, 2, 2+, 2 Ext+, 3, S5, Form 2
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Dim3nsioneer »

Made my first 1.75mm prints today. Worked flawless.
Used equipement:
- Robert-feeder mirrored (as it is feeder two) with 1.75mm filament guide and adjusted body (what's the best way to put this on Youmagine - is there a 'submit derived' function?)
- standard knurled bolt
- 3mm/2mm PTFE tube inside standard Bowden (had to cut it to 3 pieces as friction didn't allow to push it in a one piece)
- 1.75mm TFT coupler
- Anders' spring replacement
- 1.75mm Olsson Block
- 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament

Edit 06.06.2016: Modified Body of Robert's feeder
Last edited by Dim3nsioneer on June 6th, 2016, 2:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
Neotko
Reactions:
Posts: 1142
Joined: February 7th, 2016, 7:02 pm
Location: Madrid
3D Printer(s): UMO+ x2.5
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Neotko »

Test a 10k retract on 1-2h and you might get filament chew. Basic um2 bolt works, but it has it's problems on long term.
User avatar
Dim3nsioneer
Reactions:
Posts: 221
Joined: February 19th, 2016, 2:13 pm
Location: Zurich Area, Switzerland
3D Printer(s): Ultimaker Original, 2, 2+, 2 Ext+, 3, S5, Form 2
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Dim3nsioneer »

MK7 is ready to be mounted... ;-) Just needs a different filament guide
User avatar
Neotko
Reactions:
Posts: 1142
Joined: February 7th, 2016, 7:02 pm
Location: Madrid
3D Printer(s): UMO+ x2.5
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Neotko »

User avatar
Dim3nsioneer
Reactions:
Posts: 221
Joined: February 19th, 2016, 2:13 pm
Location: Zurich Area, Switzerland
3D Printer(s): Ultimaker Original, 2, 2+, 2 Ext+, 3, S5, Form 2
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Dim3nsioneer »

Yes, but for 1.75mm filament.
User avatar
Neotko
Reactions:
Posts: 1142
Joined: February 7th, 2016, 7:02 pm
Location: Madrid
3D Printer(s): UMO+ x2.5
Contact:

Re: Converting to 1.75mm

Post by Neotko »

Works for me. Ahh you want to make the hole smaller. Makes sense. I never had a problem with that and 1.75mm

I would reprint it in a slippery material like pla-tec. In fact that's a great idea.

Btw since 1.75 heats faster I modded a bit the feeders for the summer with some heatsinks sticked with alutape and its handling quite nice the 30C that we have here on spain. I had an incident two weeks ago when the heat arrived but so far 70h print on each machine and no problems.
Post Reply

Return to “Ultimaker 2 / Ultimaker 2+ / Extended & Go”