3D Printing Forum

Titus wrote:I'm running the .4 ruby exclusively now <3, that is probably too large of a jump

Not necessarily. I think I did once a .8mm line with a .4mm nozzle. The quality was not that great as with a 0.8mm nozzle but somehow ok. I would try.

Dim3nsioneer wrote:Hmmm... a 0.6mm nozzle and a line width of 0.7mm might be an alternative... controlled overextrusion - might also help with water tightness?

0.8mm nozzle with 0.7mm extrusion width does work suprisingly well.

So how would you go about doing that in Cura, tell it you have a.7 nozzle and then up the flow?

If you are running Cura 2.x.x, then you can just turn on the setting Line Width and set it to .7mm

Right now I'm trying to say spiralize, and walls 0.6mm with a .4 nozzle.
The model looked good, but upon further inspection I saw at some points there would just not be a wall. If I drop to 0.5 it does show a wall, and .7 shows no inner circle at all, making me believe the model is actually less than 0.7mm thick at some points, due to being a circle etc.

I kinda don't want to run 2.x.x, as checking layers seems to cost me an hour or so to load.

Well let me say that with everyone's help...and patience...I have been getting some good prints out of my Ultimaker Original lately.

I owe some friends some beverages sometime

I have the aluminum frame in hand for BB-8 which requires those hubs I have been printing.

Here's what it will eventually look like...
I'm really tempted to print them in CF20 for the strength....but we all know how grueling it can be to get good prints with that stuff. Still...I have 90% of a roll and Anders' nozzle, plus additional Cura settings from ColorFabb I could try.

Well a few updates on that frame and hub project...

1) I've pretty much given up on CF20. Good horizontal strength but terrible vertical. I did a few test pieces with 100% infill and I'm convinced they will snap and break if used in this project. (All the test ones did!)

2) nGen prints nice after a few tweaks but so far, I think PLA/PHA is going to be stronger.

3) I wish I had a second and third printer to make the larger pieces!

Hi LePaul, I've been testing some filaments from rigid.ink, the PLA I wasn't a fan of as it would only really print at 1/2 speed, but there PLA+ was nice, supposedly it was the same strength as ABS, only available in a few colours though.

I wish they had resellers in the United States

LePaul wrote:Well a few updates on that frame and hub project...

1) I've pretty much given up on CF20. Good horizontal strength but terrible vertical. I did a few test pieces with 100% infill and I'm convinced they will snap and break if used in this project. (All the test ones did!)

2) nGen prints nice after a few tweaks but so far, I think PLA/PHA is going to be stronger.

Have you tried PETG? I buy 3Dprima brand PETG off amazon.co.uk and it's by far the strongest material I have used, although prone to stringing. It's a bit finicky with temperature as well, but once you have that all dialled in then the interlayer adhesion is astonishing. It breaks almost like glass, and looks very glass like when smashed. Yup, I have destroyed a lot of PETG.

I haven't done any PETG as I am finding PLA works very well for the stuff I am building. (Props)

I just posted elsewhere about trying out a different brand of filament and got a really good result. I purchased two rolls of Matterhackers PLA Pro and decided to give that a try.

The honeymoon may be over between Colorfabb and I...it may be time to try some other brands

Everyone must be on summer break...it has been quiet here

I'm very busy doing a IRobertI feeder with the bondtech gears. And next week I must start changing the last umo hotend to make it um2. So, nonstop!

I am also very busy - with other 3d printing related things...

I've seen a few BondTech feeders on Ultimaker 2's on YouTube....interesting to see