3D Printing Forum

Tonight's progress

Using the rubber mounts that come with servo motors between the fan mount and screws. Wondering if rubber will deal with the print head heat or get a metal spacer?

While I am happy with the shrouds I have made, i decided to order two Delta fans for testing.

Here's what I went with

I also pick up some additional 2-wire connectors (pre-soldered)...I couldn't find just the connector! So, I found 10 for $3. I'll have plenty of extra!

Love some feedback!

I'd recommend you get yourself a pair of 40x40x10 Sunon Maglev fans which are absolutely amazing and ditch the 50mm ones. And as a side note, buy a stack of darlington transistors if you have the old electronics, I fried mine like 5 times while testing various fan combos. Old UMO electronics are cr@p unfortunately, I was so glad once I swapped them out.

EDIT: Deltas are awesome as well, good choice

chopmeister wrote:I'd recommend you get yourself a pair of 40x40x10 Sunon Maglev fans which are absolutely amazing and ditch the 50mm ones. And as a side note, buy a stack of darlington transistors if you have the old electronics, I fried mine like 5 times while testing various fan combos. Old UMO electronics are cr@p unfortunately, I was so glad once I swapped them out.

EDIT: Deltas are awesome as well, good choice

Thanks! But are those no 40x40x20?

EDIT: Nope, they exist in 40x40x10

Yes they do, I have them on my printer. The airflow is crazy. <3

I sort of went off topic and started a new thread on the fans I purchased....which seemed to have made my idea more complicated

http://3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=164

Lepaul... Did you ever try this fan cap?
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tapir ... r#activity

The right ear robot looks pretty spot on. Ofc the "problem" it's that you might need to rotate the heater block... But I might even print it for me third umo with carbon.

I did print one but think just using two fans on each side with 45 degree tilt (no ducts ) might work better

The tapir one looks nice, but it melts against your heater, unless you isolate it
I had some really nice fans shrouds printed from I believe Chopmeister? but my fans are to weak to actually push air through them xD So I'm using a metal sheet folded UMO+ shroud now. Which makes the machine pretty safe for children etc, but a pain in the ass to change nozzles.

Indeed I think isolating the alu block it's a must to avoid two issues. a) Air on block makes constant & stable heat a issue and b) The air bouncing on bed and hitting the block also makes fluctuations on heat.

The main issue to design a umo fan I think also it's that (for good or bad) the users can install the cables on the hotend on almost 4-5 different and working ways.

Also the other issue it's that you can only go 2-3mm bellow the alu block to shoot air, because if any fan cap it's a bit too low it might hit the hotbed clamps (if tou plan to use e3d nozzles).

It's a path full of issues.

Titus wrote:So I'm using a metal sheet folded UMO+ shroud now. Which makes the machine pretty safe for children etc, but a pain in the ass to change nozzles.

I use an RC socket wrench. It is very convenient when you use the metal fan...

Oh guys I designed all this weekend a fan upgrade using 40x40 fans that not only it's awesome (not cute visually) but also solves all the problems.

- Doesn't hit bed clips if e3d.
- Doesn't hit sides or sideblocs.
- And most important. It's 100% simetrical.

So happy!! I'll publish it in a week. It's so awesome!

Oh forgot to edit. It useds 2x fans 24v pwm able. Not cheap. Also it needs a bit of kapton since it also blocks air from hitting the alu block. Awesome!

That doesn't help my 50mm fans!

I understand the fan blowing up on the heater block thought but, doesn't any airflow bounce up? Even the new UM2+ pushes air down and will hit the block, right?

As you saw with my right side overhangs, I just need airflow for starters on that side!

On UM2 you have a steel 0.5mm cap with only a small circle for the nozzle to pop out, so the air bounce it's minimal.

50mm dual fans could be installed on my mod, but would requiere some redesign. I just tested the first assembly and they rock. I need to fix a 1mm problem with the sideblock but minimal.

The problem with airbouncing it's that without a good cap, you can't shoot 100% fans to kill the overhangs at low height. But ofc that depends on what you use to print.