3D Printing Forum

Hi all,

I recently found this video on Youtube that shows how to create PCBs in a fairly simple way using a 3D Printer and permanent marker:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNh0ubRcTYU

I was wondering now if this couldn't be done even easier with my Ultimaker 2 by just screwing in a steel nozzle in my Olsson Block. I might have to come up with a spring loaded seat for the nozzle if the bed leveling is not good enough. And maybe try to source a steel nozzle that is not yet drilled open...

What do you think?

Reiner

I wonder why that didn't embed....let's see

It is an interesting application, never thought of doing that, one more thing on my to-do list

...and I assume you have no problems getting Rema1000 permanent markers

I need to check with Carl if he is willing to sell me a raw, undrilled steel nozzle.

We did this in high school. If you have to etch it anyway, why not go toner transfer method. Easy, fast etc

Glad the embedded video worked!

Titus wrote:We did this in high school. If you have to etch it anyway, why not go toner transfer method. Easy, fast etc

I have never dared to use the toner transfer method since it is so dependent on the type of paper you use. It seemed to be an art by itself to find the right paper that holds the toner just long enough. And ironing the toner onto the PCB seemed to result in very ugly smears in most videos I have seen.

One could probably start by mounting something like this inside a nozzle and see if it works: https://www.tindie.com/products/upgrade ... n-p160-b-/
Not sure about that particular one, but there are thousands of "pogo-pins" to select from.
I might actually check if we have some spares at work

Do you think the print bed springs would not provide enough flexibility?

There is even something like your pogo-pins with an M6 thread:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ball-spri ... s/0478658/

But I think the ball in those would not scrape enough off.

reibuehl wrote:

Titus wrote:We did this in high school. If you have to etch it anyway, why not go toner transfer method. Easy, fast etc

I have never dared to use the toner transfer method since it is so dependent on the type of paper you use. It seemed to be an art by itself to find the right paper that holds the toner just long enough. And ironing the toner onto the PCB seemed to result in very ugly smears in most videos I have seen.

The key is to print on a LASER printer, with GLOSSY INKJET PAPER. Worked on the first try. Just make sure you use the paper that is NOT meant for a laser printer

Titus wrote:Just make sure you use the paper that is NOT meant for a laser printer

Scary, last time someone used non laser paper in the printer at work it ended with one very unhappy printer..

Now when I see that video again, it would be interesting to fit a tiny motor with a tiny end mill like this one fixed to it: https://www.artcotools.com/ad98-diamond ... te-3x.html
One could probably do interesting micro-machining with that kind of setup. I guess that would be another thread though

I would not recommend using a 3D printer for milling. The whole mechanics can't provide the stability and torque for milling unless you plan to mill just Styrofoam. And on top the whole Ultimaker design will not withstand the dust and metal flakes long.

Nostalgia post. We used a laser printer and self-adhesive film oracal type. Works much better than paper of any kind.