DIY CoreXY

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Roberts_Clif
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DIY CoreXY

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Hello to all

I have three Cartesian style 3D Printers.
But now I am looking a building a CoreXY style 3D Printer.
Would like information on DIY builds that would meet at least 300mm cubed, a nice good fast 3D Printer that will me to sell my Cartesian style 3D Printers.
Was thinking of building a simple inexpensive CoreXY printer that could be upgraded to make a great 3D Printer, One that would replace all three of my Hictops.

Would like a DIY 3D Printer that could be upgraded from a simple inexpensive starter CoreXY to something that would In several inexpensive steps could equal a Voron V2.4 CoreXY

If you have a suggestion please post
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LePaul
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Re: DIY CoreXY

Post by LePaul »

KB3D was offering presales on the next batch of Voron 2.4 3D Printers
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Re: DIY CoreXY

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Thank You @LePaul

However the Voron 2.4 is way out of my single item purchase price range.
I would have to sell all three of my Hictops plus all my cash to even get close an still not arrive at its purchase price.

I have however found this which will give me a head start into a CoreXY 3D Printer.
It is a Scalable CoreXY V2 (HICTOP Prusa i3 hardware Converted to CoreXY).

If I can get my head wrapped around what to do with this Thingiverse post. I can not find any measurements or how to assemble.
Downloaded DesignSpark Mechanical 5 where I can measure the T-Slots and the Bed, though nothing else. Still this is my best shot.
An the designer has no build of materials in their thingiverse post so the basic design is all I have.
Oh well I have worked from less, my 1st Hictop had no assembly instructions so had to use this Youtube video in order to assembly.

Most likely I will have to adjust everything to the original Hictop parts, then after getting them working can upgrade.
This will be to a 300mm square build area. Though I would like to adjust design from start to have dual Z steppers and four Z smooth rods.
This should make it a little nicer when it is finished.

The basic parts will run about $200 then transfering my 3DP12 parts over to finish.
As I have an almost complete set of spare parts this would be where all my Hictop 3DP12 parts would be appropriated from.

I assume that the center T-Slot's should be framed at the height of my original Hictop about 11 1/2 inches.
This would be for the length of my Lead screws and smooth rods. The single back T-Slot is only to support the extruder Motor.

No ideal about the top single T-Slot, though the photos show it holding wire bundle.
Wow this may be a lot easier than I first thought.
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Re: DIY CoreXY

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Not too bad learned how to use Design Spark Mechanical Program in a few hours.
Learned how to export the STL files no more problem.
Model.jpg
Models I need.jpg
May be slow but there is nothing I cannot self teach myself.
I now have access to a Complete set of 3D Printed Parts
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Re: DIY CoreXY

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Frame parts arrived, could not wait I assembled the basic frame.
Posting both the original and mine with changes.
Frame 1.jpg
Frame.jpg



I will need to fine tune design it looks very good though will need to 3D Print models to see how every thing will fit before posting any measurements.
Decided on having dual Z-Axis stepper motor to eliminate the cantilever effect.
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Re: DIY CoreXY

Post by LePaul »

I've been following that Thingiverse post and this thread...I see you asked him a Comment.

That's a 4-5 year old posting, so I am curious how well this worked out for him....and what you'll use to make your version work
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Re: DIY CoreXY

Post by Roberts_Clif »

LePaul wrote: May 8th, 2022, 11:24 am I am curious how well this worked out for him....and what you'll use to make your version work
Have not received a response from my post on this Scalable CoreXY V2 (HICTOP Prusa i3 hardware Converted to CoreXY).

I have no doubt I will get this working may need a few pointers because of no build of materials document.
Though after installing Design Spark Mechanical Program have a better understanding of most of the hardware .
Will of course has options to change anything I can not understand.

The Z-Axis should be simple using original marlin code for Hictop though.
Now need idler belt bearings that will match the models in the RSDOC thinking six GT40 22mm with an 8mm bore an using Stock Stepper motor gears.
Firmware should almost the same simply by selecting CoreXY style under Mechanical Settings of marlin 2.0.9.2 Already configured just needs testing.

Thought I would put the Upper belt assemble together and test movement using the LCD, But first have to order the Idlers once I am sure they will work.
Wow this would go a lot easier with a build of materials.

@LePaul Are you thinking about doing this conversion.

I know in order to run at max design speed that a 32 bit controller will need to be replaced with the original Atmega 2560
An any CoreXY design could be modified to make a Hictop CoreXY using original hictop parts.

He used Repetier-Firmware-1.0.0 this I have never worked with and I am using Marlin 2.0.9.2
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Re: DIY CoreXY

Post by Roberts_Clif »

With the Chinese businesses closed down and Covid tests stations everywhere decided to purchase all remaining parts from my Country of origin.
Doing so means I have to make changes to my initial build of materials list.

Will be using two MF128ZZ bearings for each of the 4 Belt idler Pulleys these are a little short of correct width an will include PLA spacer washer.
My other 4 idler Belt pulleys and the Belts were found on E-Bay ordered and will be shipped from a local source.

Now is the time I need to get all my presently necessary model printed, as not to waste time when the ordered parts arrive.
I want to start out using an Atmega2560 I know it will work but wanted to see how far I can push it before failure set starts.
An at a later time can replace the Atmega2560 with a much better 32bit controller.
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Re: DIY CoreXY

Post by LePaul »

I have ordered a Voron 2.4 kit from KB3D for my workplace.

The bed plate that stays fixed looks very interesting. How the entire gantry system moves is really interesting.
Given the Open Source / CAD files for this build, a few of my peers have a few interesting mods in design, such as arranging the nozzle at a 45 degree angle for those types of test print. (Our Large Scale machine has a 45 degree nozzle so we can test things small scale before going big!)
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