Is there anybody out there?

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Tech Gorilla
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Is there anybody out there?

Post by Tech Gorilla »

Hello all,

I am finally returning to my Hictop printer (3dp-17) and getting it to work reliably. Anybody still got their ears on here?
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Yes.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Tech Gorilla »

Good to hear! I am going to have to live here for the next few days at least. I have forgotten a lot. Even reading my own old posts, I cannot decipher my own notes. The printer sat from right after I installed those bearings till now. It had issues like jittering through a print and making every print look like it had bear fur. Apparently 4 bearings are NOT better than 3.

My list of things to change:
1 - Change bearing blocks back to 3 - Done.
2 - Install upgraded base plate - Done.
3 - Install a BL Touch to replace proximity sensor. - Pending.
4 - Install PEI sheet on bed after BLTouch install - Pending.
5 - Change firmware to make new configuration work.

The learning curve for editing the config will be large. Health issues kept me thinking of other things.

The BLTouch is to fix the issue of the proximity sensor reading poorly. I was going to go the voltage divider route with it and figured BLTouch is easier and I can use PEI bed. My Ender 3 uses a BL and PEI and it's so rock solid, it's scary.

I've let thins printer just sit and it is starting to get on my nerves. I will likely get it dialed and put it up for sale again.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Roberts_Clif »

I have been using 4 Bearing on all three of my Hictop Printers with no problems, wonder why you are having problems?

Would like to see your upgraded Base plate, please post more information.
I Have firmware changes for BL Touch though it has never been tested would like to see your firmware changes.

I quit using the SN04 Proximity sensor never did like it changed to the Omicron TL-W3MC2 which has worked great for me.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Tech Gorilla »

I will take a picture of it before I put the bed back on. The 4 bearings made me pretty salty. It just never printed anything good after I changed them. I have been testing everything as it sits and it appears that my proximity sensor is not stopping the nozzle. I am not sure if it's the board or the heavily modified firmware I created a couple of years ago. I am probably going to stick the stock firmware back on and make sure the printer is functioning before putting the BLTouch on. It arrived today and the mounts are all printed. It's been sitting so long that the hot end smoked some dust off of itself. XD

I've got to set up a table to put the unit next to my PC for ease of flashing. I may get to that yet today.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Roberts_Clif »

I have flashed most versions of Marlin 1.x.x thru Marlin 2.0.9.2 had a minor problems using Marlin 2.0.9.3 so reverted to 2.0.9.2 on my Hictops.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Tech Gorilla »

Would like to see your upgraded Base plate, please post more information.
I bought this from some retailer with Geeks in the name. I'll research that although you can likely acquire one of these anywhere. I bought this originally to add the 4th bearing block, and now it only has 3. I cant find the original frame at the moment, but this is a substantial upgrade.
I Have firmware changes for BL Touch though it has never been tested would like to see your firmware changes.
I do not have the BL installed yet and I have not made any firmware changes since we last spoke. I'm using a version of 1.1.9 bugfix and possibly one of your configuration.h files. I will attach the config file I just reflashed - more below.

I was having problems with the proximity sensor reading at all and my hotend crashing. Thanks to your fine posting information, I flashed the machine back to the factory hex and that broke the printer but not a surprise as I have upgraded the screen. I then recompiled and uploaded an archive folder of the Hictop Marlin (bugfix) that I had saved back then and the printer looks normal now. Furthermore, the proximity sensor is now operating properly.

I intend to put the printer back together fully again and attempt a test print with the proximity sensor first. Once I am confident that I can print, I will install the BLTouch and configure.
Attachments
Configuration.h
(71.24 KiB) Downloaded 132 times
bed 2.JPG
bed 1.JPG
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Tech Gorilla »

Roberts_Clif wrote: July 27th, 2022, 7:38 pm I have flashed most versions of Marlin 1.x.x thru Marlin 2.0.9.2 had a minor problems using Marlin 2.0.9.3 so reverted to 2.0.9.2 on my Hictops.
I may mess with Marlin 2.0 once I get back to printing. I assume you still have access to all your configuration files, no?
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Yes I have all my Hictop custom versions of Marlin archived an can flash at will to any version wanting to test.
I have flashed my 3D Printers to test problems others were having with a version to see if I could duplicate there problems & Correct.

No I do not have a BL tough.
I have a 3D Touch still in box I have flashed the BL-Touch firmware to verify firmware recognizes it & stayed with my TL-W3MC2 sensor.
Last edited by Roberts_Clif on July 28th, 2022, 8:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Tech Gorilla »

Roberts_Clif wrote: July 28th, 2022, 7:34 am I have a 3D Touch still in box I have flashed the BL-Touch firmware to verify firmware recognizes it & stayed with my TL-W3MC2 sensor.
I will update you on any changes I make for the BL touch and post them here. I'll likely work with your information to get it working. I must say again - your information spread throughout this forum is superb. Sometimes one has to read a bit before that information is revealed, but it's a decent archive none the less.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Tech Gorilla wrote: July 28th, 2022, 11:40 am I will update you on any changes I make for the BL touch and post them here. I'll likely work with your information to get it working. I must say again - your information spread throughout this forum is superb. Sometimes one has to read a bit before that information is revealed, but it's a decent archive none the less.
Thank you very much.

Myself would not consider it superb, maybe a good collection of posts with readable grammar an punctuation .
Attached is my 3D Touch firmware Marlin 1.1.9bf for Pur (this was Purple my 3rd Hictop 3DP12 printer which was a successful firmware test)
Resorted again to my TL-W3MC2 low profile sensor because I was testing many firmware modifications for several Hictop users
Plus my own MPCNC for which the 3D Touch test firmware was being tested before flashing Marlin 2.0.9.2 which is on all 3 of my Hictops.
Though have not completed the MPCNC my BL/3D touch firmware was a wonderful success
Marlin-1.1.9_Purple-3D.zip
(1.04 MiB) Downloaded 124 times
An no I did add the 3D/BL touch to any Marlin 2,x,x firmware must have slipped my mind.
Though could complete it in a few minutes,
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Tech Gorilla »

Well,the saga continues. I resumed my work today by threading the lower Z bearing block to accept the new adjustable mount for the proximity sensor. I also have the new one printed for the BLTouch in the near future. I re-installed the bed and just began running the printer through a range of motions and homing to make sure nothing hit anything it was not supposed to. I even managed to send it through a test bed level procedure and nothing hit anything else. That all went well...then.

I noticed that my heat block was askew. I went to investigate by touching it and it was LOOSE!! That could very well be the reason why all of my prints with the 4 bearing setup failed miserably. If that hot end was slopping around during a print, it could have also caused the bear fur printing I was seeing. The threaded part of the heater block assy goes through a hole in an aluminum block with only a set screw to hold it to the aluminum block which then screws to the motor. That was just completely loose. I ended up (with a wiggle) pulling the whole heat block and threaded tube out of the hot end! :-x

I now have the hot end completely disassembled on the bed so I can reassemble it. I'd like to see a diagram to see what the clearance should be from the threaded metal tube to the feed assembly above it. I guess it really shouldn't touch, so I will use a feeler gauge as a shim before tightening it up. I just stepped over to the PC to relax a minute and to update this thread. Part of the reason I am documenting this is so that I may point a potential new buyer to the trials and tribulations of tweaking a printer.

I'm still quite confused on how to actually set the measurements and offsets on this proximity sensor, but I am going one step at a time.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Tech Gorilla wrote: July 28th, 2022, 10:59 pm
I noticed that my heat block was askew. I went to investigate by touching it and it was LOOSE!! That could very well be the reason why all of my prints with the 4 bearing setup failed miserably.

I'd like to see a diagram to see what the clearance should be from the threaded metal tube to the feed assembly above it.
I have posted about this Throat Screw coming loos for the entire time I have owned my Hictop 3D Printers.
This single set screw has caused me more troubleshooting than any other part on my 3D Printers.

Recently I have purchased a set of screw taps as to enlarge this set screw and to hopefully end this problem.
If not then will install a different Hot end.

The assembly of this Hot end is on the included CD in assembly instructions, as to calibration none exist.
I have found on my 3DP11/12 I can get close by,
1. Install only the Throat assembly
2. Home the printer.
3. Using LCD controls lower Z-Axis to lowest point.
4. Place a sheet of paper about .2mm thick under the nozzle.
5. lower the throat assembly to the paper an tighten set screw.
6. Assemble the remaining carriage parts.

At this point you can start using Z axis Offect to correct for the minute of difference.
With the newest versions of marlin 2 you have a better Z adjustment using LCD
1. Click
2. Select Configuration Click
3. select Advanced Settings Click
4. Select Probe Offsets Click
5. Select Z Probe Wizard Click
6. Lower to where nozzle in the same Height as layer thickness using filler gauges
7. Automatic bed leveling may be required.
Done.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Tech Gorilla »

Well, apparently this is now something that I need to pay attention to. I had the red locktite in my hand last night and I ALMOST used it. I wasn't confident in my reassembly, but I think I have it close. I may drill a dimple in the throat and use locktite later.

I did find the assembly instruction in the manual which helped understand some things. I al had installed a new wind guide on the unit, but that print - the opening is too thick and wont home or anything without smashing the wind guide. The wind guide just hangs too low for the nozzle. I went back to the old forked opening guide.

Without even really doing a complete level or adjustment - I threw caution to the wind and tried to print a calibration cube. I'm ballsy like that. The results?? 20.25(x) x 20.25(y) x 19.76(z) It doesn't have the surface finish of my Ender, but i'll be dipped - it printed. It looks like my hotend Esteps are borked though as the nozzle is firing out a LOT of material where it shouldn't be. I lowered the flow in Cura to 90% for giggles and printed another cube. The flow was a lot better, but I really need to calibrate my Esteps today.

I am still using the bare aluminum bed and the proximity sensor. Interestingly enough, I temped the PEI sheet on the bed and the proximity sensor reads through it just fine. Not sure what that would do to the Z offset though.

I can certainly tell that after you and I interacted the last time, I had this printer calmed down. What I mean by that is the acceleration on this printer is MAD. It's almost like its going to hurt itself switching directions. I absolutely screams, but the max numbers need to be tweaked. This firmware probably has the numbers pegged at 1500mm/s

Before hitting reply, I realized what you mean about the set screw. Drill the block oversized, tap a new hole and install a proper GRUB SCREW with the knurled indentations on the tip to keep it in place. Loctite red on top of that. If you ever have trouble removing the locktite, a super-hot hot end will still allow you to spin that grub screw out.
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Re: Is there anybody out there?

Post by Roberts_Clif »

The dimple is a great Ideal

I am using a simple cheap bed surface purchased form China.

I have enabled S-Curves which calm down down the 3D Printer a bit.
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