Ultimaker Brand PLA
- LePaul
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Ultimaker Brand PLA
Well I thought I would share this as I found it quite interesting...
The Ultimaker brand PLA (Silver) kept binding up on the Ultimaker 2+. (Fabrc8 is sending a replacement roll.)
I thought I would try it out on the Ulimaker Original
On the Ultimaker 2+ , I used the default temp of 210 and got good prints.
On the Ultimaker Original, 210 gives me massive under-extrusion.
I remembered reading others with UMO/UMO+ having troubles with the UM filament that was included. I rarely print at 220 but noticed the reel said a print range of 195 - 240 C I thought that upper range was close to where PLA can gunk up a print head?
That said, I did a test print (ironically the spool / filament guide pieces for the UM2+) and found 220 gave a better result.
What's your luck been with the Ultimaker brand PLA?
The Ultimaker brand PLA (Silver) kept binding up on the Ultimaker 2+. (Fabrc8 is sending a replacement roll.)
I thought I would try it out on the Ulimaker Original
On the Ultimaker 2+ , I used the default temp of 210 and got good prints.
On the Ultimaker Original, 210 gives me massive under-extrusion.
I remembered reading others with UMO/UMO+ having troubles with the UM filament that was included. I rarely print at 220 but noticed the reel said a print range of 195 - 240 C I thought that upper range was close to where PLA can gunk up a print head?
That said, I did a test print (ironically the spool / filament guide pieces for the UM2+) and found 220 gave a better result.
What's your luck been with the Ultimaker brand PLA?
- drayson
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
I have a roll of white UM PLA laying around and honestly never checked the temperatures it in detail. but as you come up with it, I remember that I usually print colorfab PLA/PHA with around 208° and for UM Pla I had to go up at least to 215°...
But I thought that the age of the stuff might be a reason...
But I thought that the age of the stuff might be a reason...
- LePaul
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
Hi Drayson
Same, Colorfabb seems to be really good at 208. I start it at 210 to get a really good flow going for the first layers, then back it off to 206-208
I bought some of that brilliantly-bright Ultimaker yellow PLA and kind of looking forward to using that sometime
Same, Colorfabb seems to be really good at 208. I start it at 210 to get a really good flow going for the first layers, then back it off to 206-208
I bought some of that brilliantly-bright Ultimaker yellow PLA and kind of looking forward to using that sometime
- Izzy
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
It does depend on what is actually in it.
Colourfabb and Faberdashery I use about 210'C, Reprapper is a little lower at about 195-200'C Rigid ink was higher at 225'C.
Ruby Nozzle added 5'C to nozzle temperature.
Some times I may add about 5'C for the first 2 layers and then drop it back.
Colourfabb and Faberdashery I use about 210'C, Reprapper is a little lower at about 195-200'C Rigid ink was higher at 225'C.
Ruby Nozzle added 5'C to nozzle temperature.
Some times I may add about 5'C for the first 2 layers and then drop it back.
- LePaul
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
Anyone else having troubles with Ultimaker brand PLA? I'm having trouble with some Silver PLA, it's the new type in the cardboard box, etc
In my UMO is seems to slip around, not really grinding but I am seeing the hobbed bit dusty. Usually I can hand turn the extruder and a lot of material will come out. But with this stuff...not until I clean the feeder again.
I thought maybe it was the feeder...or the print head was too close to the bed. But I replaced with with ColorFabb white PLA and that's printing like a champ.
In my UMO is seems to slip around, not really grinding but I am seeing the hobbed bit dusty. Usually I can hand turn the extruder and a lot of material will come out. But with this stuff...not until I clean the feeder again.
I thought maybe it was the feeder...or the print head was too close to the bed. But I replaced with with ColorFabb white PLA and that's printing like a champ.
- Izzy
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
Is you hobbed gear clogged? Reducing the bite effect of the gear
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
Do we need to ask 3Dverkstan to add a totally new error category to their troubleshooting guide? "LePaul-ing" - mysterious errors that happen only on one printer owned by one person?
- LePaul
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
No, I cleaned it with a toothbrush and it looked fine after.Izzy wrote:Is you hobbed gear clogged? Reducing the bite effect of the gear
It's just weird, usually you can hand turn that extruder and it will move filament like crazy. Maybe this new Ultimaker PLA is a bit more slippery?
- LePaul
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
Ha, couldn't hurt!reibuehl wrote:Do we need to ask 3Dverkstan to add a totally new error category to their troubleshooting guide? "LePaul-ing" - mysterious errors that happen only on one printer owned by one person?
I certainly don't consider myself a Pro at this stuff yet...always learning.
- Meduza
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
What are you guys talking about? That section has already been there since some time...
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23 ... ting-guide
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23 ... ting-guide
- LePaul
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
You jerks are getting coal from Santa this year
Yeah that's a great resource, of course
I'll try again tonight.
Yeah that's a great resource, of course
I'll try again tonight.
-
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
It's Erik's fault! He made me do it! He's a big guy, he scared me. I'm sorry.
- Neotko
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
Welcome to the other side of the mirror!I Robert I wrote:It's Erik's fault! He made me do it! He's a big guy, he scared me. I'm sorry.
- Izzy
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Re: Ultimaker Brand PLA
That's great, I bow to you the gods of humour, whist keeping my eye out for the demigod of bad luck.