3D Printing Forum

Hello everyone

@Anders-Olsson already showed this picture in another thread, but we are right now building a custom Ultimaker Original+ Extended at Stockholm Makerspace, it is built from a official UMO+ kit with some custom mods.

The height is 100mm higher than the standard model, we lasercut the sides ourselves out of 6mm birch plywood and opted to close the sides to reduce draft problems. The spool holder used is the stock UM2 one instead of the lasercut one since it looks so much cleaner.

The print head is a UM2 one instead of the standard print head, mainly because i had one extra laying around so we could do it, but also because of the dual fans and the fact that i like the Olsson Block better when changing nozzles than the UMO block. Or you could just say that it is for the fancy looks

That's really really impressive.

I need to make a trip out to Europe and meet all my talented printing friends someday!

The fans set the opposite. This is a bug or a feature?

A bug caused of being too tired when mounting it, i saw and fixed it after the picture was taken

The build moves forward, now we got the longer axis and the longer Z-screw mounted

This post and the anders olsson 290C just made my jump shark and bough some um2 parts to change the hotend of my umo+. That little um2 hotend looks so small cniw that I see it on the wooden frame.

That is really impressive!
Such a nice mix of components, it gives me a this funny feeling that the UMO always was supposed to look like that
I wonder if the Ultimaker HQ has seen it yet?

Some people at the makerspace suggested that we should post it with on the UM forum with just a picture and the text "thanks for the prototype, it works really well"... But yes, it looks really nice and it feels very much like it could have been a official Ultimaker.

Our next project after finishing this one is the total opposite, it does not look like it is a original Ultimaker at all We call it our "Ultimonster", a direct-drive-enclosed-heated-bed-and-chamber-crossflow-fan UMO with a custom water-cooled mostly-metal hotend that should be able to be used up towards 300 degrees, complete with a directly connected filament dryer. That printer is made for printing exotic materials like nylon and polycarbonate, but could also be used with ABS. (Obviously the focus for that printer is not printing PLA)

Teaser picture:

That's incredible!

Explain the CPU cooler on the right side?

Did you use the UM original type z-screw or the newer version from the UM2 ?
and if you used the UM2 version, where did you buy it

LePaul: The CPU Cooler on the right side has a embedded temp sensor and a 300W heater cartridge, it is there to supply extra heat to make it a true temperature controlled heated chamber instead of just a enclosed printer I'll start a new thread for the Ultimonster as soon as we get to that project

Xeno: It is the newer UM2 screw style. This is a acutal UM2 Extended screw, but you can get a similar one much cheaper here
(choose the 400mm variant, the UM2 Extended screw is 380mm)
http://www.robotdigg.com/product/31/ and the brass nut: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/667/

Neotko wrote:This post and the anders olsson 290C just made my jump shark and bough some um2 parts to change the hotend of my umo+. That little um2 hotend looks so small cniw that I see it on the wooden frame.

I am not sure to understand to which extend an UM2 hotend is better than an UMO one -- from what I have read so far it looked to me that UM2 users had more issues with their hotend than myself on the UMOs (but that was the pre-Olsson era )

I think most um2 users have issues because they never had to assemble their machines XD Who that had an umo never got a small bad assembly with black goo leaks, or a nozzle not tight enough leaking, or a bowden slipping. Ofc umo users have that over powered gear feeder, that helps

The main problem (for me) on umo hotend it's the 255+ heat limit. I had to use for some prints a very high temp carbon+something and to print at 70mm/s 0.2 layers I had to stay on 260C and the peek started to deform, so I had to change back to formfutura carbon to stay on the 250ishC. I think the hotend won't print better, so far I'm very happy with my print quality at high speeds.

My ColorFabb XT-CF20 just arrived...I am wondering if that will clobber my UMO print head now?

@Neotko, yes, I agree high temp can be a problem -- as it was on the UM2 before the Olsson block...
I actually would be more inclined to mount an E3D for high temp (I have a new one in my drawner for ages )

@LePaul Temperature should not be a problem for the XT-CF20, but I hope you have spare nozzles if you print with the standard brass one...