Fan shroud upgrade

[LePaul]

9th atomic pull is the charm?

Yay. Filament moving again

[Titus]

I would try to get the nozzle against the block instead Op the brass separator. It is better for printing and better for your peek and teflon

[Dim3nsioneer]

@Titus: Hmm... in general I would agree with you. But if you want to exchange the nozzle from time to time if think leaving a small gap between nozzle and aluminium block is a good thing as it makes sure you can tighten it properly and will get no leakage... doesn't have to be much, maybe half a millimeter is enough...

[Titus]

I agree with you there, I must say I took it for granted given the ruby nozzle topic and the pictures that were posted there
Also, why would you even switch nozzle

[LePaul]

Well if I go loose on the brass pipe the heater block spins

[Neotko]

That's the first sign before the thread dies completely. So use it as long as you can, 1-3 more nozzle changes and you will need a new alu heater block. Been there, done that... If it dies, just remember this, you will need to hammer the heat sensor from the other side to push it out. Heater usually doesn't gives problems to go out, but I had to hammer one to get it out once. Since a year ago I have killed 2 pt100, 1 heater and 2 alu blocks, 4 barrel isolators and 2 peeks (one by boiling it in oil XD).

[LePaul]

It's a weird balance. If I left brass pipe along you see gunk forming on top. Now that I heated it and made tighter, with all those atomic pulls the clog is finally out. But yes the nozzle doesn't go in as far as it had

Now to try printing again. I'm hoping this solves my low volume not sticking to bed issue

[LePaul]

Well we are printing again.

What's interesting is I used a level to check a hunch that might explain problems printing on the right side of my bed. Seems my bed, even after calibrating the bed to the nozzle , shows a slight tilt down to the right.

Short term fix is print in the center!

But just weird how I have so many troubles getting that first few layers to go on well over there. I'd expect my print head height over the bed to be way off on the measured side

Or maybe this printer is hexxed since every print seems to require so much tweaking to work well?

Note on second layer right side...

[LePaul]

So weird!

Note walls on left part are good, right are not

[Neotko]

Could be two problems at the same time.

The curvature of the bowden adding preassure
The coupler dead/half dead

And:
The x/y shafts of the hotend mught be banana
The bed

[LePaul]

But on the good side....the Ulticontroller works (Trying to find a positive!)

[Neotko]

But on the good side....the Ulticontroller works (Trying to find a positive!)

Don't worry, when you have 3 printers like me I tend to forget how much pain in the arrsse it's to fix stuff. Today I been changing a ptfe coupler while adjusting my umo with um2 hotend and printing non stop with the third one to not waste time. And after that, I started to glue like 50 keychains for my best customer. Epoxy stinks like to dentist office... I hate it

And now I must design stuff for the summer line... I need a break...

[LePaul]

You had commented on seeing an issue on my printer, which led me down a path of trying to figure out what needed to be replaced. I wound up not changing anything, just trying unplug the nozzle and get back to printing. Everything seems to go through ok.

One change I had to make, which it seems to make sense now...for the start of the print, I went warmer to get a good flow (256C) I think 250C was too cool for the filament to stick to the bed. It did, however, make a stringy mess around the nozzle. The last few prints have come out OK

I'm still having a tough time with certain things, like the rounded hole structures for the support...I'll post a photo.

[LePaul]

[Neotko]

If you print that high, take a look to the peek, that think melts, but the real problem isn't that but the fumes it starts to release...