3D Printing Forum

I went easy with some files and sandpaper. The tops have tiny holes where the bridging failed. But the fans are so forceful that shouldn't matter

See the little bubble of filament between the heater and pipe? Should I replace the ptfe and ceramic piece? I've really baffled by the perfect support on one side and not the other.

Did you see my question about the two other parts (not the caps)

That on the pipe/top of the heater it's a leak between the nozzle/barrel. Told ya I saw something weird on the print preassure and that cousld be it. The problem it's that the alu heater screw might be blocking the nozzle because alu heaters screw area can die really quick. So it might look like it's tight but it might be just that the nozzle can't go futher in because the inside it's damaged.

That imo it's a bit a pain to clean. But could be fixed without replacing.

More tightening when warm?

That indeed should stop the leak. After that you should do quite a few atomic a if you plan to change the kind of filament.

The problem it's to find the good spot between tight and not overtight it so the thread doesn't start to die. I never found that sweet spot and I kill all blocks after 10-15 nozzle swaps...

Well let's see how we get through the left and right pieces....and the fan caps, are those set to go? You hinted something needed changing?

If you downloaded all after my post saying that I changed the files you should be ok.

Okay
Having troubles getting filament to stick to bed. Cleaned glass and all. Time for an atomic and clean things up

Holy clog.
You asked about the PTFE inside
And here's some curious residue on what would come out
Waiting for things to cool a bit and disassemble and replace with parts on hand (the PTFE and brass pipe). Should the ceramic be replaced?

I'm worried I might damage the ruby if I heat over a candle to clear out the gunk..

The ptfe coupler you need the check the other side, the one touching the barrel.

You should assembly everything again, purge with pla, then atomic. I never do atomic of carbon because the filament breaks so easy it's impossible to pull it out.

Assembly it, even if leaks, at 200 you should be able to puege with pla slowly using the ulticontroller. Don't go to high on temp or pla will clog also.

then you get almost just pla out of it, then atomic it, then you can dissasemble.

To clean the areas with leak (after all that) set the hotend to 150-180, crush some pla on the leak areas, then cooldown to 90C and pull it. You will get most of it out leaving a shiny clean hotend.

I couldn't get PLA to go into the teflon...so I may have to replace all of that stuff. I mean, I have spares for all...and sure I'll find more goop inside the brass pipe and heater block

Well, if you assemble everything you might save a lot of stuff by just atomic in/out all. The only part that you might need to replace its the ptfe, the other parts can be rescued. Depends on your patience and tools at hand.

To cold down the hotend fast just turn the fans and stop them near the desired temp. To do faster atomics ofc.

You had seen some issues the other day and suggested replacing one of the parts, tho?

Indeed. As I said. Check the other side of the coupler. But if you are carefull you can clean and keep probably everything. Unless the coupler has just die. But that isn't related to the leak or the clog.

I wonder if this helped. I managed to get the brass piece deeper into the block once heated. Still doing atomic pulls on the clogged nozzle