3D Printing Forum

LePaul wrote: Just trying to solve the PWM noise issue!

Try the 'Slow PWM Fan' firmware

LePaul wrote: Were you able to do that without fan or minimal?

No fan

Neotko wrote: If you fell 'brave'. I just published an untested 40x40 fancap based on my just finished umo/um2 fancap.

Trying to get the Neotko Original up and running first...
... That's not plug and play
I have a couple of issues...

1. It is a bit to high (against the heater bloc). That is not a big issue, because I have play on the sandwich, so I can shim under and that should work (I just shimmed the fan right now to check the clearance.
2. More annoying is that the rear fan screws are in the way for the XY blocks. I might solve that with countersunk screws that would go in the fan screw hole
3. But then, even without the fan screws I cannot reach the x-stop because the screw of the XY-block comes against the top part of the sandwich The plan for that one is to reverse the XY-block screw, having the nut towards the front side...

Enough for the day, I'll look at that tomorrow with a fresh mind.

I see. That doesn't happen with iso m3 screws... I did take the height of the m3 screws but if you use taller screws indeed it will hit. I bought long ago 50 screws of every m3 kind with the same iso ultimaker does.

Also if you printed it like it was made (cough cough) you could have just added a spacer between the top/bottom and move the fancap lower without hitting the slideblocks.

Neotko wrote:I see. That doesn't happen with iso m3 screws... I did take the height of the m3 screws but if you use taller screws indeed it will hit. I bought long ago 50 screws of every m3 kind with the same iso ultimaker does.

I might just have enough for the rear screws, or I'll swap with other screws on the printer, or as I said it should work with countersunk....

Neotko wrote: Also if you printed it like it was made (cough cough) you could have just added a spacer between the top/bottom and move the fancap lower without hitting the slideblocks.

No, it would hit in any case. it is the end of the side-block screw which hits the leg of the sandwich. It is just half a mm or so too long. It will work if I just reverse that screw...

Some wire work...

Amedee wrote:

Neotko wrote:I see. That doesn't happen with iso m3 screws... I did take the height of the m3 screws but if you use taller screws indeed it will hit. I bought long ago 50 screws of every m3 kind with the same iso ultimaker does.

I might just have enough for the rear screws, or I'll swap with other screws on the printer, or as I said it should work with countersunk....

Neotko wrote: Also if you printed it like it was made (cough cough) you could have just added a spacer between the top/bottom and move the fancap lower without hitting the slideblocks.

No, it would hit in any case. it is the end of the side-block screw which hits the leg of the sandwich. It is just half a mm or so too long. It will work if I just reverse that screw...

Ahhhh the slideblocks hit when they go in. But I also tested it with twisterblocks and was a clean pass. Also did tests with the wood standard and shouldn't happen.

And a little foil tape to protect the wires near the print head

And print head clearance

I am noticing the beep on the Ulticontroller sounds different when the fans run (even low). Anyone else get that?

@neotko @amedee, I think I know what you mean:

If the nut on the left is not there, and the screw is all the way in, the right part hits the printed shroud.

Well I was noticing the temperature was wandering all over the place first.

I removed the shroud and widened the hole
Mounted
I installed Amadee's firmware as well, that was painless. I'm wondering about the fan kick start tho.

Since we know my fans are pretty powerful, in Cura I went in and set it to these settings....
Now I had the printer sit at 200C for 2 minutes to see how much the temp would wander. It went -4 the +1 and pretty much stabilized where it was supposed to be.

I felt that was a good move widening the hole some. One less variable.

I, too, have trouble with the print head homing as you can see in the video

In this video....note that the first layer is going on and temps seem OK. Then the second layer, the fans power on, then MAXTEMP.



Then the screen turns blue , then comes back after 5 seconds.

I'm stumped. But I am hoping these clues help!

Titus wrote:@neotko @amedee, I think I know what you mean:
If the nut on the left is not there, and the screw is all the way in, the right part hits the printed shroud.

Yes, this is exactly what I meant.
Happy to see it is not 'just me' -- My UMO+ is still a pretty standard build

But as I said, putting the but on the other side (like Titus) is an easy workaround.

@LePaul

I think the fan are taking too much power and the controller resets, which would explain why the sound changes.

They also generate too much noise for the temp sensor which is why you get MaxTemp.

What I would suggest is to
- use the slow fan PWM option of the firmware to see if noise is better
- wire your fans in series to get a more manageable speed range

Amedee wrote: - wire your fans in series to get a more manageable speed range

That's actually a superb idea. That way the fans would be using 9.5V since the plug it's 19V and since the fans are 12V that should keep them from getting way too much v. And since you already used them on parallel you know that they won't fry if one of them stops and the other goes full 19V. Awesome!

Btw @lepaul, I would try to keep that hole to the minimum needed, you want to stop air from bouncing back to the heaterblock as much as posible. You can use tape on both sides to cover the exposed area, you will be fine as long they don't touch the heater / nozzle. Also, I would really cover both sides of the fancap, not just the side near the block, since the heat from the block & bed affect also.

Amedee wrote:

Titus wrote:@neotko @amedee, I think I know what you mean:
If the nut on the left is not there, and the screw is all the way in, the right part hits the printed shroud.

Yes, this is exactly what I meant.
Happy to see it is not 'just me' -- My UMO+ is still a pretty standard build

But as I said, putting the but on the other side (like Titus) is an easy workaround.

Yup, I was looking at other sizes, but there simply isn't one. So this is the second best solution(just reversing the bolt is actually better as you did )

This just keeps getting more complicated. Fun

So now to sort out your wiring changes

I'll check the slow fan option in firmware first

I did get that version from your site


How do I wire this up now?

Fan one pos & neg to Postive lead
Fan two pos & neg to Negative lead ?